Hope for the Batwa people

I am stumbling along rocky paths weaving upward through sumptuous expanses of immaculate, thriving vegetable gardens nestled between three imposing volcanoes; Muhavura, the highest looming peak caressed by cotton wool clouds, Mgahinga, wrapped in lush forests and the baby Mount Sabyingo smouldering in the distance, in this heaven-blessed, fertile cradle of Kisoro, southern Uganda. 

A young girl and her mother are swinging long hoes as they created perfect mounds of rich, dark volcanic soil ready for planting Irish Potatoes (the Irish would be proud!)

Renowned BBC gardeners Monty Don and Alan Tichmarsh would be astonished to see such picturesque, flourishing gardens; an abundance of potatoes and yams, wheat, corn and maize fields and acres of pretty flowering peas and towering beans; enough to keep these families of mountain farmers well-fed with plenty of fresh produce to sell at the market too.

Handsome multi-coloured goats and cows munch moist grass as we pass and mobs of laughing children come running, waving and giggling, flashing their white smiles from shiny brown faces, calling “Muzunga”, Swahili for White Person, when they spot Julio and me, a strange sight, wandering through their remote village, way off the tourist track.

I became instant friends with enthusiastic, kind-hearted Julio from Mexico on our Absolute Africa tour, from the minute we stepped onto the giant yellow bus in Nairobi. Along with Merethe, a genuine, caring young woman from Norway, we recognised each other as soul mates, joining this adventure for the sheer joy and love of connecting with the local people, as much as seeing magnificent animals in the wild. 

As Merethe had to fly out early, it was just Julio and me who opted for a visit to the Batwa tribe - the “Pygmy” people - proud hunters who were displaced from the forest when it became a National Park to protect the mountain gorillas in 1991. 

The two of us curious travellers stumbling around these secluded hills are accompanied by fit and agile Kisoro men, Joseph, 29, and Godfrey, 26; knowledgeable guides who are dedicated to helping the Batwa marginalised community.

When Africans say “It’s not far” or “It won’t take long’’, remember distance and time are measured by a different perspective here! I am wearing inappropriate footwear of flimsy sandals and a light floral top, more suitable for an elegant afternoon tea in a café, rather than a marathon mountain hike in the drizzle and bracing wind.

When we finally reach the Batwa “village” I am shocked out of my own mild discomfort. We find five tiny straw huts where up to eight people sleep, hunched on narrow ledges or standing up. There are no toilets or bathrooms and the people fetch water from miles away.    

The humble huts are built on a craggy peak. Unusable for growing crops, the farmers have allowed the Batwas to live here, although they don't own the miniscule plot. The families scrounge food from the farmers’ crops, pinching a few potatoes or some maize for their evening meal on the fire.

These people are the poorest of the poor, deprived of the basics of survival; food, water and sanitation, proper housing, education, medical care and productive work.

Joseph tells the story of their past. They have a proud heritage as strong, resilient hunters who lived in caves and hunted buffalo and foraged in the abundant volcanic rainforests. However their natural, tribal way of life came to an end when the Batwa were forced from the forest to protect the endangered gorillas. Ironically the people did not hunt the gorillas, whom they revered and lived alongside in harmony.

With Joseph translating, I ask the gathering of around 20 men and women “What are your dreams? What is your vision for the future? What do you want for your children?”

One young man is quick to answer on behave of his people, saying: “We want our own land and proper houses. We want to raise chickens and goats and grow vegetables for food. We want our children to go to school and learn.”

Julio is deeply touched by their plight and spontaneously declares his heartfelt desire to support this deprived, forgotten community through regular donations.

Godfrey and Joseph explain that a NGO is currently working to help the Batwa achieve the basics of human needs and restore their dignity. We both decide we will explore responsible ways to support them, not through handouts, but sustainable, empowering projects.  

The people are keen to perform for their visitors and launch into singing and dancing traditional songs and we join in and hold hands with these incredible survivors.

The Reverend Andrew, a devoted man of God who ministers to the community, leads us in a prayer of gratitude for this unlikely meeting of Julio and me with the impoverished Batwa families on the hill. We pray for their future and hope that compassionate people around the world will care for these endangered human beings as much as they care for the endangered gorillas.